There are so many beauty terms that it can make your head spin. Confused as to what all those ingredients mean? Introducing our new Glam Glossary to help you sort it all out.  Follow Allison each week in her quest to decode popular beauty terms, from Alpha Hydroxy Acids to Zinc Oxide.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

What they are: The Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are a potent family of acids derived from fruit, milk or sugar. The socialites (or ones we see most often) are Glycolic and Lactic Acid. Products that contain AHA slough off the top layer of your skin to expose the less damaged skin cells underneath — what you do with your fresh new face from there is totally up to you.

The concentration of AHA in any given product or procedure varies. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel says that over-the-counter cosmetic products with AHA should keep concentration levels at 10 percent or less. Professional treatments, such as that chemical peel at your dermatologist’s office (you lucky girl!), use much higher concentrations than that, but it’s allowed because the treatments are regulated by a professional and occur infrequently.

Where you might see them: Anti-aging products (wrinkle and fine line minimizers), pore cleansers, ingrown hair eliminators, acne treatments, scar reducers, spot lightening treatments, professional chemical peels, chemical exfoliants.

Are they safe? Horror stories include burning, blistering and swelling, but the FDA pinky-swears (without crossing any other fingers) that those reports have decreased significantly over the past few years and really only happen with “products that cause the greatest degree of exfoliation, such as ‘skin peelers.’”

Our biggest concern with AHA-containing products is sunburn. Studies concluded that products with AHA can increase your skin’s sensitivity to UV damage if you use them for four weeks or more. When you stop using the product, your sensitivity should return to normal in about a week.

There’s no reason to be afraid of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, so long as you use them properly. Still, as with any product, it’s important to be informed and aware of what you’re getting yourself into. When used responsibly, these ingredients can make a positive difference for your skin.

When using an AHA product, be sure to:

• Avoid direct or overexposure to sunlight.
• Wear sunscreen (you should be doing that every day anyway!)
• Apply sparingly. Spot treatments are tiny and expensive for a reason!
• Take a break once in a while. Give your skin a chance to recover.

Photo Credit: Cover – Stock Xchng member doctor-a; Inside – Murad, Kiss My Face, Neutrogena